Choosing the Right Fabric for Your Bespoke Lingerie

Fabric choice is the decision most first-time bespoke clients find hardest. The options sound similar. Silk, satin, charmeuse. And the differences are not obvious until you hold the fabric. This guide explains what each of the main lingerie fabrics actually does, how it behaves in construction, and which pieces it suits best.

Silk charmeuse: the classic choice

Silk charmeuse is a woven silk with a satin weave on the face and a matte finish on the reverse. It is smooth, cool against the skin, and drapes well on the bias. It is the standard choice for slips and camisoles because the bias cut makes use of the fabric's natural drape.

The drawback of charmeuse is that it shows every seam and every pin hole. Construction has to be precise. There is no hiding a crooked seam line. It also marks easily with water, which is why the care instructions specify cold hand washing and flat drying away from sunlight.

Stretch lace: structure and transparency

Stretch lace is a knitted fabric with a lace pattern. The stretch comes from the knit structure, not from added elastic, which means it recovers its shape well after washing. The amount of stretch varies significantly between laces. Some have 30% stretch across the grain, others 60% or more.

We use stretch lace most often for briefs and soft-cup bras, where the fabric needs to conform to the body without a rigid structure. For underwired bras, lace is typically used as an overlay on a powernet or cotton base rather than as the primary structural fabric, because lace alone does not provide enough support.

Cotton jersey and powernet: the workhorses

Cotton jersey is comfortable, breathable, and easy to care for. It is the right choice for everyday bras and briefs where comfort over a long day matters more than appearance. It does not drape as elegantly as silk, but it holds its shape well and tolerates more frequent washing.

Powernet is a firm, open-weave fabric used in the body of underwired bras and corsets. It provides structure and support without adding significant weight. Many of the bras we make use powernet as the primary cup fabric, with lace or silk as an overlay. The powernet does the structural work; the overlay provides the appearance.

Nishijin silk: a seasonal option

The narrow-stripe silk woven in the Nishijin district of Kyoto, which we can source on request, is a different category from charmeuse. It is a heavier woven silk with more body. Closer to a dupioni in weight, though smoother in texture. It holds its line on the bias rather than draping loosely, which makes it suitable for slips intended to be worn as a visible layer rather than purely as a foundation garment.

Availability varies by season, so ask before you plan around it. It is available for autumn and winter commissions when the stock is in.

Fabric swatches are available on request. Mention which piece you are considering in your first message and we will tell you which of these fabrics suit it.