
How to Measure Yourself for a Bra at Home
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- Helm Toss atelier
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- Underwear guide
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The measurement form we send to new clients has eight fields. Most people fill in two or three confidently and guess the rest. That is not a criticism. Standard sizing has given most of us very little reason to learn our actual measurements. This guide walks through each measurement, explains what it is for, and describes the most common mistakes so you can avoid them.
What you need before you start
A soft tape measure, a mirror, and ideally a second person to help with the back measurements. If you are measuring alone, a full-length mirror positioned at an angle helps you check that the tape is level across the back. Wear a non-padded bra or no bra at all. Padding changes the bust measurement significantly.
Underbust and bust: the two most important numbers
The underbust measurement is taken directly under the breast, where the bra band sits. The tape should be snug but not tight. You should be able to slide two fingers underneath. Take this measurement twice and use the smaller number if they differ. In Japanese sizing, underbust is measured in centimetres and corresponds directly to the band size (a 70 cm underbust is a 70 band).
The bust measurement is taken at the fullest point of the breast, with the tape parallel to the floor across the back. Do not pull the tape tight. The difference between bust and underbust gives the cup volume, but in a bespoke pattern this difference is only a starting point. Cup projection and breast root width are measured separately.
Cup projection and breast root width
These two measurements are less familiar but important for a well-fitted bespoke cup. Cup projection is the distance from the chest wall to the tip of the breast, measured with the tape held horizontally. Breast root width is the distance across the base of the breast where it attaches to the chest.
Together, these numbers tell us whether you need a shallow cup with a wide base (common in balconette designs) or a deeper cup with a narrower base (more typical in plunge or full-cup designs). Standard sizing does not account for these dimensions at all, which is why two people with the same bra size can find completely different silhouettes comfortable.
Torso length and strap length
Torso length matters most for longline bras and slips. It is measured from the underbust to the natural waist. Strap length is measured from the top of the shoulder to the underbust, following the line a strap would take. Both measurements help us position the strap attachment point correctly on the pattern.
If any of these measurements feel uncertain, that is exactly what the video consultation is for. You do not need perfect numbers before you get in touch.
#Underwear guide #Bra fitting #Measurements #Lingerie guide