Why the atelier exists
About
A standard size fits an average body, and very few people are one.
Why the atelier exists
Helm Toss is a small atelier in Yokote, Akita that makes lingerie to order. It exists because of a gap that ready-to-wear sizing leaves open: a client with a 28-inch underbust and a full cup is sold the nearest available size, and the nearest size is rarely right. The band rides up, the wire rests on breast tissue, the centre gore never lies flat. A pattern drafted from the client's own measurements removes the guesswork behind all three.
Why made to order
The process is deliberately slow. Each commission starts with a measurement form and, where it helps, a video call. The pattern is drawn on paper, tested in cotton muslin and corrected at a toile fitting before any silk or lace is cut. Fabrics are chosen together from what the atelier keeps on hand, and special materials are ordered once the choice is made. Because every piece is drafted separately, only a limited number of commissions can be open at the same time.
The atelier in Yokote
The workroom is in Yokote, in Akita Prefecture. Clients elsewhere in Japan are served by post and video, because the measurement form, the toile and the fitting review all travel well. Visits to the atelier are possible by appointment, arranged by email, and the address is on the contact page.
Your measurements, taken seriously
We begin with a detailed measurement form and, where possible, a video consultation. Bust, underbust, hip, torso length, cup projection. We record all of it before a single pattern is drafted.
Pattern drafted from scratch
We do not grade up from a standard size. Each pattern is drawn to your specific numbers, then adjusted after a toile fitting before we cut into the final fabric.
Fabric chosen with you
We work with silk charmeuse, stretch lace, cotton jersey and powernet. Special fabrics are sourced for a commission once you have chosen them, and the source is noted on your pattern card.
Notes
A-01Pattern drafted per client; no standard grading.
A-02Toile fitting required before final cut.
A-03Fabric source noted on each pattern card.
A-04Adjustment terms are agreed in writing before work starts.
A-05Lead time is confirmed per commission, before you commit.